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Wide angle distortion

  • I rented a EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 for my upcoming trip to Chicago. I really want to do some architecture shots. I think that distorted look is cool, but how can you fix that? I am now working with lightroom and CS3 although I am VERY new to both programs.


  • Yes, there is. But before someone goes to the trouble to explain it all to you, and you subsequently turn around to ask deadpan how to do the opposite – to achieve that wide angle effect – I think you better first make up your mind which you want, Emerana.

    Seriously, what are you talking about? Never freaking mind, I will figure it out on my own :thumbdown:


  • You could probably do the same thing with a rectilinear ultra-wide like the EF-S 10-22 and use the CS3 lens distortion correction tools to add some barrel distortion back in, although you'd probably have to end up cropping a bit of the image away.

    Which is something that I suggest people with wide angle lenses take into consideration. Shoot wider/taller than you need so that when you make these corrections in post, that parts that you crop are not critical portions or parts that remove from your picture parts that are important.


  • In Photoshop CS2 and CS3 I think the best way is to use Filter>Distort>Lens Correction, and turn the grid on. If you do it that way on the uncropped camera image you will not affect the aspect ratio of the building. If you use the Transform tool you need to expand the top and contract the bottom, so the centerline stays the same width. The Lens Correction filter does that for you automatically.

    You don’t always need a shift lens (tilt is not usually necessary for architectural work) to get it right in camera. You can simply use a wide enough lens to get the whole building in without tilting the camera, then crop the bottom off.


    Best,
    Helen


  • I rented a EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 for my upcoming trip to Chicago. I really want to do some architecture shots. I think that distorted look is cool, but how can you fix that? I am now working with lightroom and CS3 although I am VERY new to both programs.Coincidentally I just got back from Chicago myself the other month. I just picked up a Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 but didn't have it at the time so I was using my fisheye a lot.

    Uncorrected:
    http://images36.fotki.com/v1177/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_4406d-vi.jpg

    Full rectilinear conversion, about a 104-degree angle of view, slightly wider than the 10-22 would be:
    http://images35.fotki.com/v1168/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_4406dr-vi.jpg

    Image Trends Hemi conversion:
    http://images34.fotki.com/v1144/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_4406dh-vi.jpg


    All of these distort in different ways, so it's just a question of what looks the most natural.


    Another shot, full fisheye:
    http://images33.fotki.com/v1136/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_4788d-vi.jpg

    90% rectilinear converstion with some barrel distortion intentionally left in:
    http://images34.fotki.com/v1149/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_4788dr-vi.jpg

    Hemi conversion:
    http://images28.fotki.com/v1002/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_4788h-vi.jpg



    When I did the full 100% rectilinear conversions on these shots they never quite looked right because there was just too much of the stiff peg-legged distortion at the corners, which is what ultra-wides do. If I only did the rectilinear conversion about 85-90% of the way and intentionally left some barrel distortion in the shot, they did seem to look a bit more natural to my eyes. You could probably do the same thing with a rectilinear ultra-wide like the EF-S 10-22 and use the CS3 lens distortion correction tools to add some barrel distortion back in, although you'd probably have to end up cropping a bit of the image away. Shouldn't be too big of a deal though. I'm just learning how to shoot with my Tokina 11-16 so don't have any tips on how best to compose or shoot with one yet.


  • Yes, there is. But before someone goes to the trouble to explain it all to you, and you subsequently turn around to ask deadpan how to do the opposite – to achieve that wide angle effect – I think you better first make up your mind which you want, Emerana.Dude, drop the attitude. :thumbdown:


  • some times want it, sometimes dont. step away? hummm...isnt there a way to fix it in photoshop?


  • Darn you Mav...no way my shots are going to be that beautiful! *sigh* :P
    Good work.
    Thanks everyone for the help (or almost everyone!). I will play with it and see what I get.


  • Yes, there is. But before someone goes to the trouble to explain it all to you, and you subsequently turn around to ask deadpan how to do the opposite – to achieve that wide angle effect – I think you better first make up your mind which you want, Emerana.

    She specifically stated that she liked the effect, but wants to know how to get rid of it in the pictures she doesn't want it in. You're obviously intelligent. I don't understand why you're acting obtuse.


  • Couldn't you just step away from your subject?


  • Beautiful shots Mav!!!


  • I think that distorted look is cool, but how can you fix that?

    What?
    Do you want that distorted look, or don't you?


  • Select the entire image and use the Transform or skew command to play with it.


  • +1 to Alfred being a snobby troll.


  • In Photoshop CS2 and CS3 I think the best way is to use Filter>Distort>Lens Correction, and turn the grid on.


    Beat me to it... this is exactly what I do and in that manner. Works very nicely in CS3.


  • Here's the one I was really looking for...

    The courtyard of a museum in Taiwan.

    First, full-fisheye (Nikon 10.5DX)
    http://images32.fotki.com/v1103/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_7356d-vi.jpg

    Next I applied my usual Image Trends Hemi conversion, but this didn't look right either. The vertical columns are straightened, but there was just too much curvature on the ground that you could see easily.
    http://images31.fotki.com/v1098/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_7356dh-vi.jpg

    Then I tried a full rectilinear conversion (and note the loss of field of view). This was a bit better, but I just hated the stiff-legged look of the verticals once again.
    http://images32.fotki.com/v1103/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_7356df-vi.jpg

    So then I backed off to a 90% rectilinear conversion. The court looks mostly straight and the vertical columns aren't so stiff legged, and this looked the most natural to me.
    http://images32.fotki.com/v1109/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_7356d90-vi.jpg

    Excellent demos, Mav.
    But 4 iterations couldn't get them straight?


  • Darn you Mav...no way my shots are going to be that beautiful! *sigh* :P


    Don't say that, you will get nice results. Just don't be afraid to experiment!

    http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2368/2319338825_059e4def2a.jpg


  • some times want it, sometimes dont. step away? hummm...isnt there a way to fix it in photoshop?

    Yes, there is. But before someone goes to the trouble to explain it all to you, and you subsequently turn around to ask deadpan how to do the opposite – to achieve that wide angle effect – I think you better first make up your mind which you want, Emerana.


  • Darn you Mav...no way my shots are going to be that beautiful! *sigh* :P


    Yes they will. Have faith in yourself, I'm sure you're better than you think!

    IMO the hemi conversions looked the best, just so you know. If I were you, and wanted to correct some of the shots when I got them back to my computer, that's what I would use. I'm not saying you should, cause art is all about what the individual thinks, but at the same time, I thought I'd throw in my opnion.

    Also thanks to everyone else, cause I didn't know you "fix" fisheye.


  • Hi Emerana. The EF-S 10-22 actually creates very little, virtually no barrel distortion. Just take great care to which angles you hold the camera. That lens has a really wide viewing angle and very small camera turns make huge changes in the composition. Have fun!

    You might also need to adjust some chromatic aberration afterwards, but it's an easy fix in Adobe Lightroom.


  • Would a shift lens work? (I'm not sure if you can get one wide enough).


  • Here's the one I was really looking for...

    The courtyard of a museum in Taiwan.

    First, full-fisheye (Nikon 10.5DX)
    http://images32.fotki.com/v1103/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_7356d-vi.jpg


    Next I applied my usual Image Trends Hemi conversion, but this didn't look right either. The vertical columns are straightened, but there was just too much curvature on the ground that you could see easily.
    http://images31.fotki.com/v1098/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_7356dh-vi.jpg

    Then I tried a full rectilinear conversion (and note the loss of field of view). This was a bit better, but I just hated the stiff-legged look of the verticals once again.
    http://images32.fotki.com/v1103/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_7356df-vi.jpg


    So then I backed off to a 90% rectilinear conversion. The court looks mostly straight and the vertical columns aren't so stiff legged, and this looked the most natural to me.
    http://images32.fotki.com/v1109/photos/1/1055548/5664478/DSC_7356d90-vi.jpg


  • Hi Emerana. The EF-S 10-22 actually creates very little, virtually no barrel distortion. Just take great care to which angles you hold the camera. That lens has a really wide viewing angle and very small camera turns make huge changes in the composition. Have fun!

    I also thought that Emerana was referring to methods of correcting or avoiding the effects of tilt rather than fisheye or barrel distortion.

    Best,
    Helen

    PS
    This was taken with a lens equivalent to about a 14 mm shift lens, but it could just as easily have been taken with a wider lens (or a zoom at a wider setting) then cropped. There has been no perspective or distortion correction in Photoshop.

    http://gallery.photo.net/photo/4916760-md.jpg


  • There's a gem of a tool out there called ptlens. I use it a lot to correct for perspective, barrel distortion, vignetting, etc. (I take lots and lots and lots of building pictures)

    The thing is cheap and works like a champ.

    Check it out...

    http://epaperpress.com/ptlens/


  • are you talking about the "fish-eye" kinda look?


  • Yes, a tilt/shift lens is often used in architectural photography and can help you to prevent converging lines like the sides of a tall building.

    I believe the widest Canon TSE is 24mm...which isn't very wide on a crop body.







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    March 9th, 2010 at March 9, 2010 |  | Permalink